Tutorial for hex painting. ========================= Contents: "Hex-painting" You need a hex editor or easy-edit kit (and useful tools) Editing Breedfiles (the actual "painting") Balls lists for Dogz and Catz breedfiles "HEX-PAINTING" ============== People keep asking me for a hex painting tutorial. I can't think why; the only difference between hex-painting and hex editing is that you don't rename the breed or make it show up separately in the Adoption Centre. You still need a hex editor -- or, better, my easy-edit packages -- and you still need to edit the .LNZ part of the breedfile exactly as you do for hex editing. But here it is anyway... Hex-painting is done in order to adopt pets, and "litters" of pets, which have unusual characteristics but which will run using the standard P.F.Magic breedfiles. Any pets adopted from a "hex-painted" breedfile are supposed to be able to pass their colour characteristics on into the general gene-pool, although changes in shape etc aren't likely to carry on through generations unless you provide the edited overwriting breedfile or .LNZ along with the pet. You will need to keep backup copies of any breedfile that you're going to edit, of course, and once you've finished making litters from the edited version you can delete it by copying the original one back over it. If you mess up and have forgotten to back up the breed, you may be able to find replacements at sites such as APKC or Daniel Wright's archive. You will only be changing things in the .LNZ section of the breedfile, because any changed bitmaps and sounds inside the breedfile won't be there in anyone else's breeds. Also of course you don't want to change the breed name or it won't run with a standard breed. When you come to the textures, if you're going to change the furfile bitmap it _has_ to be external to the breedfile, and you'll have to change the texture list to point to where it is (e.g. \resource\catz\wibble.bmp). Remember that if you're sending people pets from a hex-painted litter which uses such furfiles, you'll have to send them a copy of the furfile also and tell them what subdirectory to put it in (if relevant). You need a hex editor or easy-edit kit (and useful tools) ======================================== First, try my easy-edit kits. They are downloadable from my site and, if you read the readmes and install them properly, the only thing you'll need to use for editing is Notepad! If you don't use the easy-edit kits, you'll have to use a hex editor at least some of the time. If you don't have one, there are loads of them available for download, and they all do the same basic tasks, although some of them have complicated "bells and whistles" too for power-users. You can get various freeware ones, such as: Hexedit, from http://www.okinfoweb.com/moe/files/hexedit.zip Hexedit (yes, same name, different program) from http://www-physics.mps.ohio-state.edu/~prewett/hexedit/index.html Axe, available from some of the simtelnet mirrors but hard to get and so, at the time of writing this, you can also download Axe from my site. If none of these suit you, do an Internet search (using one of the online search engines such as Google or Yahoo) for "hexedit" and "freeware". All of them are pretty straightforward to install, I think. Then, if you have the shortcut to your chosen one on your desktop, you can drag-and-drop any file you want to investigate onto it. They all show files in a similar way: there are three sections, the left-hand one being the "Address" section and containing numbers which show which byte you're looking at (in Hex numbers usually), and it starts at 00. The middle section is the meat of the thing, being the actual data of the file shown as hexadecimal numbers. The right-hand side shows the file itself also, but in this case as raw ASCII so that you see it as a mix of weird symbols or dots and text. Most of the time you will be looking at that right-hand section in order to find or fiddle with bits of text. It is possible of course to edit breedfiles etc (_not_ petfiles!) in a modern-day Windows Resource Editor such as the one at http://www.users.on.net/johnson/resourcehacker/ which is fine, as you get to see the .LNZ file the way it's supposed to be and, as opposed to using a hex editor for the job, you don't have to keep the file size always the same. The down side is that Resource Hacker re-compiles the file each time you make changes, and eventually it often corrupts. If you prefer, you can use a program called Vim. You will probably need to download Vim from the maker's site and figure out how to use it yourself. I'm afraid I can't help you with that. ftp://ftp.home.vim.org/pub/vim/index.html Other useful tools ------------------ Notepad.exe -- came with Windows. Used for editing .LNZ files if you do it my way. Mspaint.exe -- came with Windows; you might want it (or a paint package of your choice) to edit Furfiles. Editing breedfiles (the actual "painting") ========================================== Before you start editing your breedfile to make your hex-painted litter, make sure that you have a copy of the original somewhere safe. Also keeping copies of the new breed as you go along is no bad thing. Another thing to remember if you're using a hex editor -- and this is important -- is that the breedfile must be exactly the same size after you've finished. You can see what size the file is at any time by right-clicking on it in Windows Explorer and choosing "properties". The basics of editing are the same whether you start with a .DOG breed or a .CAT breed; the only real difference is in the ballz numbers. I include lists for both types later in this document. It's a good idea to start with a P.F.Magic original when you edit, rather than an already-hexed breed; this is because some people remove whole areas, replacing them often with spaces, which you might want to retain. Also some people, such as myself, do some pretty strange experimenting and you could end up with results that puzzle you because some small already-changed item escapes your notice. This is not to say you shouldn't learn from others' work -- of course you should! But with the technique I use (described below) it's an easy matter to take out the core of a hexed breedfile and examine it for ideas and techniques which you can then use. Okay, either open your .LNZ into Notepad or open your breedfile into your chosen editor, and let's on with the editing! I shall use the Persian Cat file as example unless otherwise stated: remember, the other cat and dog files are very similar, and they all follow the same structure. THE MAIN PART OF THE BREED; THE SIZE, SHAPE, ETC ------------------------------------------------ This is the core of the breed; the .LNZ file which makes up the kind of creature it is. In the case of the Persian it starts with ; persian and continues down to (c) 1997 PF. Magic, Inc. Lets not talk about me Now, this is actually an area of ordinary ASCII text (letters and numbers). You'll probably want to do lots of editing here... There are three ways of doing this. Either laboriously go through it, byte by byte, in the hex editor; many people used to do that with Petz 2 and Petz 3 breedfiles. Or, if you're familiar with Vim, you can edit it pretty quickly; the drawback is that you have to be familiar with Vim's quirks. A lot of people these days use Resource Hacker; if you do that, and get corruptions or crashes, ask around on the various forums for help or go back to previous versions and start again from there. Or, if you like using Notepad, just open the .LNZ from one of my easy-edit packages into Notepad, edit and save. If you're doing it the way I used to, with internal .LNZ files, then copy out the whole area from "; persian" to "Lets not talk about me" into a new file in the hex editor, save it as a .txt file, edit it in Notepad, and re-save it in the right place in the breedfile in your hex editor. I still do that when I've finalised a breed with one of my external-lnz easy-edit files, if I want to make a new breed downloadable. But since you're just hex-painting, there's no need to do that unless you want to distribute the breedfile for breeders. I use the Notepad methods because I'm comfortable with them. These days I use the external easy-edit packages more often than the internal-lnz Notepad method, as I'm getting less time to make full new breedz. _Don't_ use Wordpad or any more sophisticated program such as Word to edit the .lnz, as that can put in hidden characters that you don't want. .LNZ files inside the breedfile are actually two .LNZ files -- adult and kit or pup -- and you need to be aware of this when editing because changes to the adult .lnz don't always show up at the Adoption Centre unless you've made the changes also to the pup or kitten .lnz. There are two special cases, the Alley Cat and the Poodle, which have two "RAW" .lnz files also. These are a form of variation which only have an effect when the petz breed, so you may want to hex them to be identical to the breedz' normal two .lnz files. The following extracts are given assuming that you are using Notepad; the sections will look different to you in a Hex editor, because you won't see them as columns, just a constant wrap-around stream of letters and numbers. What can you change? Well, fiddle around with most things and see what happens. Take a look at my .LNZ file breakdown chunks, available at my site, if you want to get an understanding of what each item is and how it can be changed. All I'm showing you here is a rough guide. [Default Linez File] \ptzfiles\cat\catmaster.lnz This contains data which is common to all cat breedz. You can insert the items which are in the "catmaster.lnz" file into your own breed's .LNZ and alter them there -- those changes will take precedence over the originals in the catmaster.lnz file, but you still nee to point to a [Default Linez File]. In dogz of course it's dogmaster.lnz. [Little one] prkit.lnz This points to the pup or kitten .lnz. you can actually change that so that it points to itself by putting pr.lnz there instead; it's useful for a quick look at what the adult will be like, because it will come out of the AC fully grown. [Breed Name] Persian This doesn't actually seem to have much effect. Then there's [Sounds] \ptzfiles\cat\pr\prsnd.txt If you change this, you will end up with a silent breed unless you point deliberately to a list of sounds that you have edited. If you do that, you will need to distribute the sounds with the pet, which you wouldn't want to do for hex-painted petz. Everything else is open to change, and you can get some pretty spectacular results even just changing the [Head Enlargement], [Face Extension] etc. Experiment with relative sizes and lengths, including minus numbers. The eyelid colour is up here, separate from the main ballz Info section, so it's here that you will have to change it if you wish: [256 Eyelid Color] 18, 1 Things like the various [Move] sections and the [Project Ball] section can be messed with, though some caution is needed if you want to keep the thing looking reasonably sane... *thinks a moment about some of the breedz I've hexed*... Awww heck, who needs sanity? *Cackles madly* [Project Ball] // stationary ball, projected ball, amt There are three columns. The first is the ball to which another is going to relate -- it's the ball which will remain "stationary" -- and the second is the ball which is going to project from it by a certain amount, the third column being that amount. Because it uses one ball to steady another and keep it in the same relative distance, I tend to call this "anchoring". I believe that has confused people in the past. [Move] Now, this section is very important to hexers and is often used in conjunction with [Project Ball] to get things like tail shapes right. The first column is the ball number. The next three columns are the x, y, z axes to which you want your ballz to be moved relative to the defaults. If there is a fifth column, then that is the ball to which this move should be relative. So 14, 4, -3, -5 14 would mean that you want ball 14 to be moved sideways by 4, up by 3, and forward by 5 relative to its normal position. This fifth column is also useful in helping to keep a ball "anchored"; it's not as firm as when you use the [Project Ball] distances as well-- for instance, angled legs in dogz breedz can throw out strangely if you don't keep them in place with a [Project Ball] "tie" -- but it does help to keep balls from behaving strangely. This [Move] thing will at least keep your ballz as intended relative to the "relative" ball. If, say, you want your elbows to stay relevant to the shoulders, you do your xyz move for the elbows thus, in a catz breed: 12, , , , 38 13, , , , 39 in a dogz breed of course that would be: 7, , , , 18 31, , , , 42 Note, you'd have numbers where I've got , , in the above example, of course! Back to our Persian. Here's an important section: [Default Scales];was 113 113 105 ; normal pet scale 105 ; normal ball scale If you change these numbers, you can make the whole creature either larger or smaller, and if the pet scale is vastly different from the ball scale some startling effects can occur. For the next sections of interest -- the [Add Ball] and [Linez] ones -- it's best to have a list of ballz and their numbers handy, so I prepared a list earlier which you should find at the end of this tutorial. You will find that, as your hexing gets more complicated, that you'll have to keep counting your [Add Ball] lines of code yourself to find out which ball has which ball number. [Add Ball] The Addballz are the key to the problems some people have with ear-colours. This section can look a bit confusing, but actually it's all logical really. Usually you don't have to alter these, but there may be times when you want to make sure that, for instance, the colour of the extra ear ballz fit that of your new breed's ears in the main [Ballz Info section], or you may want them to be a different size or different shape. Most of the columns in the Addballz are pretty obvious: base x y z color otlnCol spckCol fuzz group outline ballsize bodyarea addGroup texture but the first four can be a bit muddling until you get used to them. It works if you think of "base" as being the base reference for the ball you're working with, and the x,y,z values would then be the distance from that in the three dimensions. So: ; ### From here down are animator's addballz 77. ;nose 37, 5, -5, -8, etc 37, -5, -5, -8, etc 37, 0, 0, -8, etc would mean that ball 77, with the normal nose ball 37 as its base, is offset from it by x; 5, y; -5, z; -8, that ball 78 is offset from its base (also ball 37) by x; -5, y; -5, z; -8, and that ball 79 is offset from its base (yet again ball 37) by x; 0, y; 0, z; -8. Many people get confused by [Add Ball] ballz when they come to joining them up with Linez, not realising that it's where the ball is in [Add Ball] that gives it its ball number. So the first of those nose balls above is ball number 77, the next one is ball number 78, and so on. Note that "texture" refers to the list of textures at the beginning of the [Ballz Info] section, and that 0 is the first texture in the list, 1 the second etc -- with -1 meaning no texture. [Linez] Linez also are pretty straightforward really, and you'll normally not want to bother with them unless you're making a pet with complex extra ballz, or one which is an unusual shape. They are the lines which connect two ballz together, and this section lets you fool around with the amount of fuzz, the colours, and the thickness of the edges: start ball, end ball, fuzz, colour, lfColour, rtColour, sThck (thickness of one side), eThick (thickness of the other side). As it states above the table, "-1 mean use the associated ball color", so if you want the linez to be the same colours as you've got for the ballz, -1 should be okay. Incidentally, it actually means the colour of the first ball in the Linez line connecting the two ballz, so if your two balls are of different colours, watch out for that. [Paint Ballz] Now, here's a section which is missed by some people; the [Paint Ballz] section. In this, the paw pads for each breed are shown in detail for just about every breed; however, this is also where you can find the Dalmatian's spots and the Calico cat's patches, and of course these can be changed. The columns are: base ball diameter(% of baseball) direction color outlinecolor fuzz outline group texture Once again, pretty straightforward, the first column referring to the part of the paw for which the section of pad is being made (or the ball to which the spot is to be added). The "direction" is in the form of a relative x,y,z as with the animator's addballz. What you need to remember with a Paint ballz, though, is that if you have it situated at position 0,0,0, the game will not know what to do -- it can't put a blob of paint in the centre of the ball and have it whow up on the surface! This is when you get a pet with mysterious black blobs suddenly appearing where they shouldn't. So be sensible when designing Paint Ballz. When you see lines that start with #, don't panic. Those are variations. If you want a variety of different pets to come out of the AC with your breedfile, then you would be best to study variations and understand them. If you don't want any complications, just remove all the variations. So now we come, in most breedz, to the section which looks like this in the Persian: [Color Info Override] ;individual variation #4 #3 #2;blue 3, 115 2, 115 6, 115 Okay, this is pretty simple really -- the first column is the ball number and the second is the colour. If you want variations, as I say above, don't go removing those lines which start with #, but you can change everything in this section and even add more variations. Once again, see my .LNZ breakdown chunks and my howtos on variations if you want to make good use of them. You can have a lot of different colours available within your breedfile if you wish. Don't feel bound to stick only with the balls which are actually listed in this section, either -- you can add in any ball for which you want to allow a variation in colour, and you can add in extra variations also. The next section is [Thin/Fat] 4, -15, 16 5, -15, 16 This is a way of defining how fat or thin your pet will be able to get. Then we get: [Head Shot];pr 0 frame number 51 rotation 0 roll 0 tilt -51 head rotation 8 head tilt -11 head cock 38, 38 R / L eyelid height 17, 17 R / L eyelid tilt 0, 0 (X, Y) eye target This is simply to do with what the picture of your pet looks like when you see its picture at the Adoption Centre or the carry-case. [Ballz Info] Next comes the part which is familiar to all Petz 2 or Petz 3 hexers; the [Ballz Info] section, where the breed's main ballz sizes, colours, fuzz etc can be changed to great effect. First come the bitmaps: ; First argument is name of texture. ; Second argument is whether texture is single color (1) or multi-color (0) ; This texture list is used both here and in add ballz [Texture List] \art\textures\hair10.bmp 1 \art\textures\hair10.bmp 1 \art\textures\hair10.bmp 1 In Petz 5, all the textures are in the main Resource .dll file. In Petz 3 and Petz 4, most breedz (apart from Maine Coon and Tabby cats and poodle dog), have their textures in the main Resource .dll file. The textures, which are in the subdirectory \art\textures\, is tucked away inside the large Resource .DLL files, and although of course these could be located and changed on your own machine, you wouldn't be able to put them up for download and let others see your breed or pet with its beautiful new textures. So, for the breeds which don't include their furfiles within the breedfile, you will have to include a separate .bmp with your breed and make the list above point to it (ResHacked breedz can of course have the bitmaps added internally). But for hex-painted pets of course it is essential to have the bitmap externally unless you distribute the breedfile along with the pet. NOTE: If you want the pet to work in Petz 5, you _must_ make your furfile bitmaps either 32x32 pixels, or a combination of multiples of 32 (such as 64x32, 64x128 etc) up to and including 128x128. If you don't, the pet will crash the game. So you might change line 1 to read: \resource\catz\jiggy.bmp 0 As the information above states, the 0 or 1 indicate whether the texture is to be used as single or multi-colour. This can make a big difference to its visibility and the way the ballz colour shows up with a texture; change the various balls' base colour for the Tabby cat, for instance, and the stripes will be a different colour. Occasionally you will see numbers other than 0 or 1, such as 65; that number should indicate which colour in the "background" part of the texture will allow your ball colour to show through. When you come to the Texture column in the [Ballz Info], remember that the first texture in the above list is referred to as 0, the second 1, the third 2, etc, for as many textures as you wish to include. And now the ballz themselves: ;FUZZ --> -1 = no outline, 0 = half outline, > 0 = outline thickness ;OUTLINE --> -1 = no outline, 0 = half outline, > 0 = outline thickness ;col outCol spklCl fuzz otlntTyp sizeDif group texture [Ballz Info] 15, 244, 244, 2, -2, 27, 3, 1 eBall_ankleL, etc I think these are pretty self-explanatory; the first three columns deal with colours (main, outline and speckle). Speckle is really a throwback to the Catz 1 and Dogz 1 days. Then there's the degree of fuzz , the thickness or lack of outline, the relative size of the ball (you can get some amazing shapes by using huge positive numbers, and make some balls effectively disappear with huge negative numbers), the group (you'll probably not want to change that, unless you have certain types of 2nd-gen pet problems) and which texture it uses (if any; put -1 if you don't want any texture). It's even got a handy eBall_ note at the end of each line to show which ball is being referred to... Mess with these numbers to your heart's content... And now the last few sections. These next two are dealt with in my .LNZ breakdown chunks; please read about them there if you're interested. They basically have an effect if you're breeding petz: [Fur Color Areas] [Fur Markings] Now, here's a useful item if you want to make a breed with an appendage that you can't or don't want to make out of one of its ballz. This is from the Chinchilla Persian, but you can add it to any breed so long as you compensate by removing the right number of spaces elsewhere. I did this with the Antlers for my Elks. In some breeds you can see: [Add Clothing] #3.C ; kind toy_dll lnz file Hat "\Resource\Clothes\Pink Bow.clo" "\art\Sprites\Toyz\Clot_HatBowPink\Clot_HatBowPink.clz" #2 Hat "\Resource\Clothes\Pink Bow.clo" "\art\Sprites\Toyz\Clot_HatBowPink\Clot_HatBowPink.clz" #1 ## Great! You can hex edit an item of clothing and make the breed come out of the Adoption Centre wearing it! Even better, if your breed is one where the item is used only in the male or only in the female, there is this: ; sexist - pink bow <=> female [Force To Female] #3.C 1 #2 1 #1 0 ## [Force To Male] #3.C 0 #2 0 #1 1 ## the 1 and the 0 are switches to say whether this particular variation of the breed should be male or female, and in the first part of the [Add Clothing] section it shows that the #3.C and #2 versions have a bow. So #3.C and #2 ae forced to female, and #1 is forced to male. In some breeds also there is this: [Adjust Clothing] ; kind: Shirt, Pant, Sock_FrontL, Sock_FrontR, ; kind offset scale (floating point, 1.0 is no change in size) Hat 0,-7,0 0.9 You only need this section -- and to change it -- if some item of clothing doesn't look right on the breed. Choose from the list of items shown for the "kind" column. The offset is the usual x,y,z co-ordinates relative to where the clothing item sits normally, so that you can shift it to a different position. The scale allows you to make it look bigger or smaller. Back to the Persian, then there's this, which isn't particularly exciting to change [Lnz Version] 2 And now we're into the kitten (or puppy) section, which you need to change if you want extensions and enlargements etc to be different in the youngster of your breed. ; persian kitten [Default Linez File] \ptzfiles\cat\pr\pr.lnz It tells the game where the adult .lnz is to be found. You can put an appropriate .lnz onto the hard drive and redirect this url to it as shown in my external-lnz packages. You can of course do the same with the [Default Linez File] \ptzfiles\dog\dogmaster.lnz or [Default Linez File] \ptzfiles\dog\catmaster.lnz files, but there's not really much point in doing so with those because of course everything that you put into your breedfile's .lnz overrides the "master" .lnz defaults. Don't forget this: [Default Scales];adult 113, 113 88 ; normal pet scale 94 ; normal ball scale Which can be the same as or different from the adult's defaults of course, and we even get a small [Project Ball] section which you can fiddle with in the same way if you want. If you've carefully changed sizes and fuzz, you'll want to remove the [Ball Size Override] and [Fuzz Override] sections... And voila! here we are at the end of the breed's characteristics! Remember that if you're using a hex editor to put your edited .LNZ back into the breedfile, make sure that this text file is exactly the same length as it was when you took it out of the breedfile, then copy and paste it back into the same place. If you're keeping it as an Easy-Edit external file, or are using Resource Hacker, that isn't relevant. You can now run your breed and see how it looks, and adopt hex-painted petz from it. Enjoy! Carolyn Horn Balls lists for Dogz and Catz breedfiles ======================================== For Catz: ++++++++ Ballz number list; L means left and R means right. ------------------------------------------------- The main list goes from 0-66: 0 ankleL, 1 ankleR, 2 belly, 3 butt, 4 cheekL, 5 cheekR, 6 chest, 7 chin, 8 earL1, 9 earL2, 10 earR1, 11 earR2, 12 elbowL, 13 elbowR, 14 eyeL, 15 eyeR, 16 fingerL1, 17 fingerL2, 18 fingerL3, 19 fingerR1, 20 fingerR2, 21 fingerR3, 22 handL, 23 handR, 24 head, 25 hipL, 26 hipR, 27 irisL, 28 irisR, 29 jaw, 30 jowlL 31 jowlR, 32 kneeL, 33 kneeR, 34 knuckleL, 35 knuckleR, 36 neck, 37 nose, 38 shoulderL, 39 shoulderR, 40 snout 41 soleL (i.e. the foot), 42 soleR (i.e. the foot), 43 tail1 (nearest to the butt), 44 tail2, 45 tail3, 46 tail4, 47 tail5, 48 tail6 (tip), 49 toeL1, 50 toeL2, 51 toeL3, 52 toeR1, 53 toeR2, 54 toeR3, 55 tongue1, 56 tongue2, 57 whiskerL1 58 whiskerL2, 59 whiskerL3, 60 whiskerR1 61 whiskerR2, 62 whiskerR3, 63 wristL, 64 wristR, 65 zorient, 66 ztrans The Animator's Add Balls are a little different in each breed, because of the different needs that different breedz have. For instance, the Tabby cat has stripes which need to be specified... You can work them out by studying the relevant breed's .LNZ, so I include only the more standard ones here: 67 mount align ball 68 steal captured toy align ball 69 steal toy standing align ball 70 dig align ball 71 fill in hole align ball 72 rest on pillow align ball 73 drop object at point align ball 74 utility ball 75 utility ball 76 utility ball (there's probably no need to touch 67-76 usually -- they are invisible placement balls really) The following are different in some breeds; just check out the one you're working with: 77 } nose 78 } 79 } 80 } head -- Ears region 81 } 82 } 85 } 86 } 87 } left side top of head in front of ear (near jowl and cheek) 88 } 89 } right side top of head in front of ear (near jowl and cheek) 90 } ears 91 } 92} Fangs (See Alleycat) or Ruff (see maine Coon) 93} For Dogz: ++++++++ Ballz number list; L means left and R means right. ------------------------------------------------- The main list goes from 0-66: 0 ;L ankle 1 ;L eyebrow1 2 ;L eyebrow2 3 ;L eyebrow3 4 ;L ear1 5 ;L ear2 6 ;L ear3 7 ;L elbow 8 ;L eye 9 ;L finger1 10 ;L finger2 11 ;L finger3 12 ;L foot 13 ;L hand 14 ;L iris 15 ;L jowl 16 ;L knee 17 ;L nostril 18 ;L shoulder 19 ;L hip 20 ;L toe1 21 ;L toe2 22 ;L toe3 23 ;L wrist 24 ;R ankle 25 ;R eyebrow1 26 ;R eyebrow2 27 ;R eyebrow3 28 ;R ear1 29 ;R ear2 30 ;R ear3 31 ;R elbow 32 ;R eye 33 ;R finger1 34 ;R finger2 35 ;R finger3 36 ;R foot 37 ;R hand 38 ;R iris 39 ;R jowl 40 ;R knee 41 ;R nostril 42 ;R shoulder 43 ;R hip 44 ;R toe1 45 ;R toe2 46 ;R toe3 47 ;R wrist 48 ;belly 49 ;butt 50 ;chest 51 ;chin 52 ;head 53 ;jaw 54 ;neck 55 ;nose (bottom) 56 ;snout 57 ;tail1 58 ;tail2 59 ;tail3 60 ;tail4 61 ;tail5 62 ;tail6 63 ;tongue1 64 ;tongue2 65 ;Z-trans 66 ;Z-orient The Animator's Add Balls are a little different in each breed, because of the different needs that different breedz have. For instance, the Poodle has tufts which need to be specified... You can work them out by studying the relevant breed's .LNZ, so I include only the more standard ones here: 67 mount align ball 68 steal captured toy align ball 69 steal toy standing align ball 70 dig align ball 71 fill in hole align ball 72 rest on pillow align ball 73 drop object at point align ball 74 utility ball 75 utility ball 76 utility ball (there's probably no need to touch 67-76 usually -- they are invisible placement balls really) The following are different in some breeds; just check out the one you're working with: 77 } ears outside; top spot on left 78 } and second from top right 79 } and second from top left? 80 } ears outside, top spot on right 81 } and third from top on R 82 } third from top spot on L 83 } tail 84 } 85 } 86 } 87 } 88 } tongue (or chin) 89 } test cover up part of jowls 90 } test cover up part of jowls 91 } cheek/jowls; go from cheek or mouth 92 } corners to snout or nose 93 } Inside mouth at front above chin; L 94 } Inside mouth at front above chin; R As an example of differences and extra balls, take the Poodle: poodle head puff 89-91 poodle puffs 92-95 poodle puffs without outlines for unshaved poodles 96-99 ********* end of tutorial